Camper Corner

VWOC (GB)’s special section for the T1, T2, T3, T4 & T5 Type 2 Transporter Owners

By Matthew Mulvale

Over the past couple of years it has occurred to us here at the VWOC just how many of our members are Camper Van owners. Its more than high time we did something about this, and gave our Type 2 Transporter owners a section of their own. As you know, we here at VWOC (GB) welcome all comers from the VW world. Our club is dedicated to our members, whatever VW they drive. Whether that be anything from a 1953 Beetle, to a Camper Van, to a Golf GTi, right up to the new Eos and Fox models and everything in between.

First things first! What have I got?

How to differentiate between the different models.

T1 or ‘Split Screen’ :- The Splittie started it all off. Mostly noted for its split down the centre of the windscreen, and large louvers in the rear side panels. There was also a big ‘V’ at the front, with a huge Football sized ‘VW’ badge. Engines were in the rear of the vehicle, were rear wheel drive, and were air cooled. History tells us, that a Dutch gentleman working for VW called Ben Pon scribbled a design on a piece of paper for a Beetle based delivery vehicle. That was in 1950. The rest as they say … is history.

T2 or ‘Bay Window’ :- The split screen lasted until 1967, then the Mk2 Transporter came out. This design had subtle updated features and obviously no split in the centre of the windscreen. It was more refined in many ways, and retained the rear engine, rear drive and air cooled layout. There is an ‘early Bay’, and a ‘later Bay’. They freshened up the design in the early 70’s, with a few more modern design features. The early bay has front indicator lenses just above the bumper, and the later bay has them under the windscreen. Production of the Bay window never ceased, and it is still being manufactured today in Brazil. However, they are now water cooled.

T3 or Type 25 or Brickie or Wedgie :- What is it about the T3, that makes it have so many nicknames? I guess Brickie and Wedgie refer to the shape of the T3, as it was squarer in design. Type 25 was VWs code number for that particular model. ‘25’ was the first two numbers of a 6 digit code number. Incidentally, the pick up versions were code numbered Type 24. The T3s were made between 1979 / 80 up to 1990 / 91. Production stopped in Hanover in 1991, but carried on until 2002 in South Africa. Again, T3’s were rear engined, rear drive and air cooled in the beginning. However, post 1983, they moved over to water cooled. This model was also available in Diesel. The way to tell air cooled and water cooled apart, is that the latter has a second front grille, just below the main one.

T4 :- I don’t think the T4 really has a nickname. Unless one of our readers can put me right on that. This took over from the T3 in about 1991. The Transporters now were all water cooled, front engined, and front wheel drive. So a complete change around. The new design was all about Drag Co-efficient, and as such, the T4 had a much more sloping front end. This improved economy, and gave it a more car like look. The T4 ‘s are apparently very car like to drive too. They were face lifted in about 2002, which included different grille headlights, larger bumpers and a slightly longer bonnet. T4s were manufactured until 2003.

T5:- Again with the T5, I don’t know of a nickname, and have only ever heard them called T5. This is the new and current VW Transporter (as I’m typing this in 2007). VW themselves have with the T5, gone into making their own Campervans. Up until the T5, other companies such as Westfalia, Devon, Autosleepers, Komet etc etc have converted the Transporter Vans which they’ve purchased from VW. However, now, VW make their own in the shape of the ‘California’ type models. Most notably, the T5, has big wrap around front bumpers and large oblong front lamps. Probably being the most refined of all Transporters, you can now specify Air Conditioning, Power Steering, and a whole array of electrical goodies to suit your particular needs.

Preparing your Van for the long haul.

Getting your vehicle ready for a long journey can make the difference between a successful trip, and an unreliable one. Even just a few little checks before you go, could save you time and hassle. It stands to reason, that having your van fully serviced regularly is a good idea. This way, anything unusual, dodgy, or about to fail will be pointed out. If you can, try and ‘time it right’, so that the service is shortly before you go on the trip, that would be very beneficial. So, you’ve had your van serviced recently, it’s the day before you go on your long trip, so lets do all the pre journey checks.

Tyre pressures. Its important to get these spot on, for many reasons. If your tyre pressures are too low, the van will feel ‘sluggish’ use more fuel, and may handle differently. This will affect cornering and stopping. Likewise, if the air in the tyre is too great, the van will not grip the road properly and the tyres themselves will age prematurely. Also, while you’re checking the pressures, have a look at the state of the tyres. Are there any cracks around the edges ? If there are, as the tyre gets hot, it may explode. Try and lever out any large stones from the tread, and check for nails and screws. Your tyre pressures for your particular van, will be in your handbook. It may vary for front and rear. It will also be much higher pressure than a cars tyre pressure. And don’t forget the spare, and put a few pounds extra in that one, as it might be a while before you use it. Also, while you’re down by the wheel, have a quick glance under the wheel arch. Just visually check the shock absorbers for leakage. With the Hub Cap off, just try the Wheel Nuts with the wheel brace, and make sure they’re secure.
Oil level. The night before you travel, (or better still, the day you go), check your oil level. This is vital, and one of the most important things to check before a big journey. If your oil level is too low, the engine will be getting hotter than it needs to, and working too hard. Engine wear is a high risk with a low oil level. If there’s little or no oil in your van, your engine could seize. Pull out the engine oil dipstick. Only check your oil when the engine is ‘dead cold’ i.e., after an 8 hour standstill. This will give you the only true reading of exactly what amount of oil is in the sump. The top of the oil, should reach the higher mark. Usually, anywhere between the two marks is OK, but when undertaking a long journey, you need a ‘full to capacity sump’.
Coolant. Obviously, this only applies to the T3 and onwards vans, as before this they were ‘Air Cooled.’ Make sure that the coolant level is on the ‘MAX’ or highest mark. Get underneath the van, and make sure there are no leaks. To check the amount of Anti-freeze / coolant mixture in the water, get down to Halfords and buy a tester. They’re about Ł1.99. They basically measure the strength of the coolant you have in your engine. ‘Rule of Thumb’, is you run all year round on 50% / 50% water / coolant mix.
Brake Fluid. Once you’ve found your Brake Fluid Reservoir, again, make sure that the top of the Brake Fluid, is at the MAX mark. If you’re going anywhere particularly hilly, remember you’ll be using your brakes a lot more than usual.
Windscreen washer fluid. Don’t go away without a full bottle of washer fluid. With all the flies and cowpats hitting your screen whilst charging forward at 50mph down those country lanes, you’ll need to keep a good view of the road. Likewise, check your wipers are in good condition. However, this should have been done at the service interval.
Bulbs / lights. With an accomplice, make sure all you lights are working. That’s, headlights, main beam, sidelights, all indicators, reversing lights, fog lights and brake lights.
Belts. When the vehicle is / was serviced, the various belts should have been checked and adjusted as necessary. It won’t hurt to just give them a visual check, to make sure they’re not shredded or cracked. On older vans (T1 & 2) there isn’t many to check to be honest. However, have a look, and press with your finger. There shouldn’t be more than about 10mm of movement. On newer vans, there is a whole host of belts. Cam belts, alternator belts, power steering belts. It’s a good idea to check them all.
Exhaust System. Have a quick visual check to make sure everything is tight and firm. Start the engine and check for rattles or loose brackets etc.
Start the engine. With the engine running, have a good look at the engine itself. Are there any unusual noises, any hoses leaking, and any oil leakage? Most van owners know their vans pretty well, and can usually spot something wrong.
AA / RAC Card. Most older vehicle owners know that even unforeseen problems can occur, even with the most reliable motors as well as newer ones. If you’re not a member of a Breakdown service, why not? You never know! For those of you who are, keep your card safe. Some Breakdown Service operators offer discount if you’re a member of a Classic Car club.

So there you go, you’ve had your van serviced, you’ve done all the ‘pre long journey checks’ so you should be ready for your touring holiday.