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The fuel tank on T3 (1980 - 1989) Volkswagen vans is prone to rust on its upper surface, due in the main to the recess in the top of the tank. The air-cooled versions are the most susceptible to this problem as the heater tube rests on the top of the tank (on thin rubber spacers) trapping dirt and damp. There are a number of variations of tank design but all follow the same basic principals.
The tank is held in place from below by two brackets and is connected to breather tubes, filler neck and tank level sender unit on the top and right side at the front. Outlet(s) are at the lower rear corner(s), right one being the feed to the engine (and heater if fitted) whilst for those vehicles requiring a return pipe this is on the left.
Tank removal -
REMEMBER PETROL VAPOUR IS HIGHLY INFLAMMABLE IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT ABOUT YOUR CAPABILITIES STOP AND LEAVE THE JOB TO AN EXPERT.
Firstly raise the front of the vehicle and support safely on stands. The tank should be as near empty as possible and the area surrounding the tank and filler neck cleared of dirt. Most of the remaining fuel can be drained from the right outlet pipe into a suitable sealable container. There are laws about storage of petrol, take care to store safely. The pipe outlet should now be plugged. If a trolley jack is available use it to support the weight of the tank at the centre, protecting the surface with a large rag or similar.
Before the tank can be lowered the filler neck must be removed. Do this by first removing the filler top, then three self tapping screws around the top. STUFF THE FILLER NECK WITH RAG FIRST TO PREVENT ANYTHING FALLING DOWN INTO THE TANK! Now the plastic surround by rotating it clockwise from a bayonet type fitting. This may be easier said than done but gentle tapping around the edge from the front to loosen it and then assisting rotation by similar taps on one of the protrusions below will eventually succeed. Withdraw the filler neck from the tank after its breather tube has been prised carefully from its grommet in the top of the tank.
To lower the tank, unscrew the two bolts in the front ends of the supporting brackets and remove them by unhooking at the rear. Lower the tank to allow enough space to reach onto the top remove the electrical connection to the sender unit (Left side of tank), CAREFULLY pull two breather pipes from the grommets in the top of the tank and two 6mm tubes on the top of the tank. Now the tank can be removed from below the vehicle.
REMEMBER THERE IS STILL SOME FUEL IN THE TANK AND THE REMAINING SPACE IS FILLED WITH AN EXPLOSIVE VAPOUR TREAT IT LIKE A BOMB BECAUSE THAT IS WHAT IT IS!
Remove any grommets that remain in their holes and clean the outer surface, Without making any sparks, and examine its condition. A lightly rusted surface can be preserved for a good while with a coating of Waxoyl or similar.
After checking all grommets for perishing or cracks and renewing as necessary, replace them in their respective holes maybe with a film of Waxoyl to aid fitting. Breather tube connections should be examined and treated in a similar way.
Should you need to remove the fuel gauge sender unit, it is retained by a twist out bayonet fitting and sealed with a single 'O' ring. Remove by locating a flat bar in the slots in the sender top and twisting anti-clockwise. The orientation of the unit is fixed by one 'off-set' slot in the tank. Replace in the reverse sequence, don't forget the 'O' ring seal.
For those of you with the early tank and steel filler neck, check the condition of that filler neck. It lives in a very hostile environment under the wheel arch and corrodes easily hence the change to plastic in the early '80s. Not a direct replacement by the way, as diameters vary as does the hole in the tank. |
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Refitting is, as they say, the reverse of removal. Noting that the connection to the fuel gauge sender unit cannot be reached after the tank is raised into position so fit this early. Don't forget to reattach any of the rubber anti-scuff pads that may have come unattached during cleaning, both on the tank and its brackets. The two rubber extensions to the rear breather pipes should be connected and all the grommets should be inserted before final placement and refitting of the support brackets.
With the tank in place insert the breather pipes into their grommets and their partner pipes into the rubber tubes on the top of the tank. Next fit the filler neck and its breather into their respective holes in the tank connecting up the top plastic shroud and filler cap. All of these parts will be easier to fit if smeared with 'Waxoyl' or similar, especially the plastic shroud in its bodywork hole as this helps prevent a common corrosion point. It is worth noting the screw locations in the filler top surround and its corresponding clamping ring as they only fit together in one location, also note that a good coating of preserving wax is worthwhile on the clamping ring.
Now is a good time to re-new the fuel filter (carburettor, petrol engined vehicles) before fuel flow and return (if fitted) pipes are reconnected and all clips, connections etc. checked. Filters on diesels and fuel injection models are different but deserve the same consideration.
Replace the drained fuel and check for leaks before returning the vehicle to its wheels. |
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